Ottorino Mezzalama

Born in Bologna in 1888, Ottorino Mezzalama is regarded as the father of Italian ski mountaineering: thanks to him, the exploration of slopes and valleys also gained recognition, without this necessarily having to be geared towards the conquest of a summit. Born in Bologna in 1888, Ottorino Mezzalama is regarded as the father of Italian ski mountaineering: thanks to him, the exploration of slopes and valleys also gained recognition, without this necessarily having to be geared towards the conquest of a summit. Having graduated with a degree in Economics and Commerce, he moved to Turin, where he joined the local branch of the CAI, distinguishing himself, for example, through his meticulous attention to physical fitness, achieved through gymnastics, fencing and rowing. He had taken part in the Italian expedition to Libya in 1912 as a non-commissioned officer, earning a commendation, but his military career resumed against his will in 1915, when he was recalled to lead the Alpine troops’ skiing courses, which were held at the Little St Bernard Pass and in the Champorcher Valley. Mezzalama was promoted to reserve officer, rising to the rank of captain. The 1920s were his most active years: he nurtured the dream of mapping out a ski-mountaineering route covering the entire Alpine arc, from the Maritime Alps to the Julian Alps – what he called “the 2000 trail”. Thus began an intense period of exploration, often undertaken alone, which occupied every day he had off work: even his social life suffered as a result, to the extent that he gave up thethe idea of marriage, continuing to live with his elderly mother. He did, however, not shy away from major feats either, having, in 1927 alongside Ettore Santi, made the first ski ascent of Mont Blanc. He is also remembered for his several participations in rescue expeditions to aid mountaineers in distress. From a technical point of view, it is worth noting that he never used sealskins, despite recognising their practicality: he always remained committed to the use of ski wax. In February 1931, he was in South Tyrol with Domenico Mazzocchi. They had climbed the Becher (Cima del Bicchiere) together when they were caught in a storm. They spent three days trapped in the Gino Biasi mountain hut (then known as the ‘Regina Elena’ and managed by the Turin branch of the CAI). On the fourth day, taking advantage of a break in the weather, they attempted to return, but an avalanche – probably triggered by themselves just a few hundred metres from the refuge – swept Mezzalama away, sparing a distraught Mazzocchi, who remained searching for his companion until dusk. Realising his efforts were in vain, he descended to a mining site and from there was able to send a telegram to Sterzing (Vipiteno) to request help. It was the evening of 23 February 1931. The following day, the rescuers had no difficulty in finding Ottorino Mezzalama’s remains: the snow had settled and a hand was protruding from the snow cover.